Introduction: Sheet Metal Brake

This is a simple sheet metal brake that I designed. It's relatively tuppeny at a total monetary value of $49, it's easy to build, and it whole works really well. After looking at the other designs connected instructables and youtube, they seemed to be either too labyrinthian OR also weak. I consider that this excogitation is a happy medium in ease to build, quality, and cost since you can make it unsuccessful of scrap material.

This was my second attempt, so I was fit to improve the design and eliminate all of the powerless spots from my first design. I found that the bimetal brakes tend to flex when victimisation normal doorway hinges and at the bottom bar. To prevent this, I used a much Thomas More robust style of hinge, thicker metal, and I also enclosed in the bottom bar to grant IT more strength.

The tools that I used are a bandsaw, drill press, angle grinder, and TIG welder. The metal was different sizes/thicknesses of 90 degree relegate and a small piece of noneffervescent plate.

*** I updated the design subsequently testing, so some of the photos from the first a few steps will exist different from the final design at the end. Mainly I improved the hardware used and the clamping bar. ***

Supplies

Hinges (2): $16

Metal: $25 of scrap at localized metal provider ($.90/Sudanese pound)

Stainless Steel Hardware: $8

Step 1: Notch Bars for Hinges

The flexible joint necessarily to be positioned right in the midway of the two bars. It's really important that information technology's positioned as accurately as possible, so take your time. Use a caliper to measure the outside diameter of your hinge. Divide that diameter in half, then mark it on your bar material. After marking with a sharpie, I used blue angel painter's tape to leave Pine Tree State a more accurate line for cutting. I placed the bar flat against the bandsaw table, then ready-made the cuts. I exploited a Dremel to notch the backwards of the bar, then use a hammer and punch to break it off.

Step 2: Weld Hinges

If your measurements and cuts were accurate, then the hinge should embody central. I just eyeballed it and it looked pretty good, and so I went with it. The good affair about the hinges is that there's near no play with them, so you can get it lined up as best you can without distressing well-nig the hinge moving around.

I took an old package (similar thickness to a heavy business notice) and placed it between the two bars in front clamping them into place. I just wanted to give a trifle space to ensure that the hinge wouldn't bind if they weren't lined awake exact. I'm non sure if this is obligatory, but it worked out for me.

Step 3: Invent Clamping Banish

I measured in 1" from the end of the clamping bar and drilled a 1/2" hole. I started with a small drill bit to start, past finished information technology off with the larger bit. Erstwhile you have both ends drilled, then debur them and make in for that the bolts fit through easily without catching, but also comfortable adequate so that there's none bring off.

I positioned the clamping bar against edge/groove of the metal brake. then swung the metal brake upwards to the farthermost that I thinking I would bend metal-looking. This pushes back the clamping bar into posture indeed that it's collateral to the bending bar and also spaces it bet on so that IT doesn't bind in use. After that, be careful not to bump anything and tack weld the bolt into place.

Step 4: Box in Bending Bar

Succeeding I baseball swing a piece of scrap sheet metal that I had and used IT to box up the deflection bar. Urinate sure that your hinges are fully welded in because these will block access to the hinges once they're tacked in. Also, make sure that you leave spaces so that you can mount your handles. Lastly, just perform small inhumane tack welds because you don't wish to buckle the bending bar.

Step 5: Conclusion &adenosine monophosphate; Notes

That's pretty much IT! You can view the video to see how IT works.

I did accept some issues when building this.

  • The bolts stripped. I purchased stainless steel bolts from Occident Marine and they both stripped. I did some research and found a better solution. See the update in the next step out.
  • The clamping bar had issues. I originally tack welded a single plate/strip downward the center of the clamping bar to reenforce it, withal it warped the bar jolly badly, then I had to refashion other. For the second try I right used a clamping bar without any reinforcement, simply I noticed that information technology would flex a lot when trying to bend thicker material. So I reinforced it a different way of life and you can understand the update in the last step.

More notes:

  • I use C clamps to wax the sheet silver brake onto my welding table. It works extinct well for me since I South Korean won't be using this very often. So I seat mount it when I have a project, and then easy put it away and information technology doesn't take dormy much space the least bit.
  • I use adjustable wrenches as the handles. They work well and information technology makes things simple thus that I don't need to store any longer parts and keeps the rag golden brake lowly and prosperous to store.

Whole step 6: Update: Clamping Bolts

I did a little inquiry and apparently chromium steel was a poor choice for the hardware. Untarnished has the tendency to gall, where the two surfaces can seize together. So I switched to normal zinc plated hardware and altered the design.

Instead of welding a bolt, I distinct it would constitute best to Theodore Dwight Weld a nutcase. This way if the threads on on the deadbolt stripped, I could bu unscrew the bolt and replace it with a new one. I also included a locking collar, which is just used as a thick washer, which South Korean won't deform comparable a thinner washer (the set screw is not old at whol).

Here's a breakdown of the ironware and cost.

  • Zinc Plated Wide-cut Thread Bolt (1/2-13 x 2-1/12" Long): $1.40/pc
  • Nuts (1/2-13): $0.45/pc
  • Shaft Collar (1/2" ID x 1" OD x 7/16" Thick): $2.99/pc

Ill-trea 7: Update Clamping Relegate

I ended up needing to reward the clamping bar so that it wouldn't turn when trying to curve thicker materials. I craved to make certainly that it was as rigid as conceivable without warping the material at all. So I started with the piece of 90 bar, then welded the plane piece at the top to helper prevent information technology from warping inwards at one time I welded in the plates on the underside. Close I tack welded the plates in and it was quieten flat once I finished. Tested it and information technology works really fountainhead.

Footmark 8: Final Timelapse

Here's a timelapse of the sheet metal brake in action and some pics of the first project that I made using information technology.

1 Person Made This Project!

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